DANISH WARSHIP ARRIVES (1863), also LEAD ROT!

                                ANOTHER 19TH CENTURY SHIP, HDMS ROLF KRAKE

A powerful warship has just joined my collection of toy gunboats. Very loosely based on the Danish vessel 'Rolf Krake', it is to serve in my Schleswig wargames, and other 19th century conflicts.

I'm not pretending the model is in anyway accurate, that would be pretty tricky in 54mm scale. I have purposely exaggerated the twin turrets, how much of the gun barrels are exposed, and also the funnel. I wanted it to be fairly compact, but also powerful looking. And it is meant to recreate a toy of the 19th-early 20th century. Mine is made of wood and card. The three masts are detachable. Most of my 'traditional-tin-toy' looking gunboats are about 12inches long, this latest addition is 16inches. 

I must mention just how sinister this black ship looks!

The original Rolf Krake was built in Scotland for the Danish navy in May 1863. I liked the fact it combined something of the steam ironclad monitors, and also sailing ships. This vessel was originally armed with four Swedish 68pdr smoothbore guns. And the first in Europe to rely principally on turret guns. The two turrets required a crew of eighteen to make a full turn in one minute. The ship was engaged in the Second Schleswig-Holstein War, and continued in service until scrapped in 1907. 

Why masts and steam? I read an article about a fairly contemporary German ship, it explained that coal might not always be available on long voyages to colonies, so they kept a backup system.

 

More information on this ship can be found on this very useful website..... .http://www.navalhistory.dk/English/TheShips/R/RolfKrake%281863%29.htm

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MORE NAVAL OFFICERS HAVE ARRIVED

I had mentioned to Chris that my collection could use some suitable captain figures for ships. When these were spotted on Ebay, he negotiated a very fair price. They only cost £5, including their delivery. The four railway station figures make perfect 19th century captains, and for most nationalities. I already had one in my collection, and I am able to home cast replacement arms. My thanks to Chris for sorting this out, another problem solved. They arrived on Feb. 7.

Danish officers.

Here are the figures after paint stripping. The seated figure looked very bad, covered in thick white paint and diminished hands and feet. I have now seen another, and it is the same, so clearly manufactured in this manner. I now believe it is a W. Britains civilian truck driver and dates back to the 1920s. The figure missing a base is an officer with sword belonging to a rifle unit. Have now discovered the railway  porter can also be painted as a 19th century midshipman.

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LEAD ROT, or a case of SCURVY?

Having never found a figure hit with lead rot in my collection, I have discovered my first example. And I'm in a good position to provide some info on this rare but much feared hobby disease.

1. The casting was discovered in one of my cardboard boxes containing over thirty Royal Navy figures, some plastic, but most were metal.

2. The figure was purchased secondhand in September 2020. Already painted, it was noticeable that the facial features were flattened, and the bayonet was practically broken.

3. A few weeks later it was paint stripped, and a home-cast head and rifle were added. It was then well primed, repainted, and given a coat of yacht varnish. The figure was then superglued to a piece of painted thick card.

4. The base of the figure was unaffected as it was made of thin steel. The casting was very soft, so I'm assuming a high level of lead. No sign of the manufacture. I am tempted to think it was a smaller manufacturer, or a home-cast.

5. This strange system of basing may help identify the manufacturer?

6. My own home cast extras are made from 80 to 100% pewter, which is very high in tin. Not surprisingly, the rot had failed to spread to my additions on this figure.

I have long thought that lead rot was caused by a mixture of factors, including climate. I still believe this can speed up the process, but the real issue is always the quality of the metal. I do now wonder if pure lead is more susceptible when covered in paint and varnish? I only suggest this because a member of my family has a pure lead tobacco box, dated to c.1750.

It has no signs of lead rot. But when I first viewed it in 2014,  after some time in storage, it had some very slight lead oxide (white) in a few places. A duster easily wiped it off, and it has not reoccured in ten years of displaying in a warm room.

Concerning the rotten figure, it was actually surplus to my collection as my landing party battalion had recently gained an officer. Thirteen is unlucky for some. I threw it away. You win some, you lose some, and it's just a poor quality trinket!

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US NAVY OFFICER FOR WW2

At a toy fair a trader kindly gave me a plastic figure. It was only 50mm high, and we concluded it was probably a police officer that had formed part of a toy car set. I decided to convert it into a US Navy officer. 

With a sharp knife, I removed the waistbelt.

And here it is, to be attached to my Seabees unit.

MGB

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RESTORING THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON

Last year I picked up a broken Iron Duke for £3. A splendid casting, and suitable with most 54mm figures (unlike Del Prado castings). But the figure was missing a sword and telescope. The paintwork was quite good, but some tidying was still required. I also wanted to replace the white cockade, necktie and waist-belt with black. I now feel it could serve as a foreign officer, including naval.

The photos don't do justice as the gold really stands out.

Originally....

MGB

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REPLYING TO COMMENTS FROM FRIENDS

Hi MJT. I was working with very cheap materials so I spent some money on a black spray and some tacks. It was definitely worthwhile. The spray paint cost £5.99, but I haven't used 25% of it. The whole model cost less than £10. I am very pleased with the result, I almost expect to see a tripod appear in the distance, lol.

Hello Roger. Yes, that website is very useful, and the fellow is to be congratulated on his efforts in creating it. Interestingly, one of the articles states the British were the bad guys to have attacked neutral Denmark during the Napoleonic Wars, and capturing practically their entire fleet. While I understand their position, which does have justification, you have only to see what happened to the Dutch and Spanish navies to understand the British position. If Napoleon marched into Denmark (which his armies later did, in preparation to invade Sweden). The French could have crossed the English Channel, or to Sweden, using skilled Danish sailors and ships. The British attack was unfortunate, but necessary, we could not put our trust in Danish politicians!

 Roger. Concerning wargames, my ships are totally linked to my toy soldier collection, and battles. The ships have added so much to my scenarios, campaigns, etc. Did not know there was a corresponding issue on some Zinc toys.... interesting!

Hello Hugh. I too have come across that treatment, using vinegar. To be honest, I never thought much of the figure to begin with, and having to replace the flat facial features did not help matters. I think the vinegar treatment would have solved the problem for a period of time, but that lead rot would eventually return. It does make you wonder what Britains put in their early castings as few of them get lead rot, I have never had one, it is always the home-cast stuff made out of church roof lead, lol.

Hi Donnie. That figure arrived in a box with six (genuine) Britains. I remembered there was something very different about the casting when I restored it, the metal was strange, and very soft. I'm not surprised at all to discover this is the first to acquire lead rot. You know I like a bargain, but restoring this figure did not seem worthwhile. I think my home-cast head and rifle were the only good bits, lol. Donnie, that ship is a welcome addition to my fleet....... it looks frightening!

Hello Graham. I've really enjoyed raising a fleet to serve with my fairly modern plastic and traditional lead toy soldiers. If I had none, I would have faked (off table) their participation, as I find amphibious actions particularly interesting. Having restored my late parents cast iron bench, I had some quality hard wood planks left over, shame to waste it. But half my collection is made of plasticard, which has also proved successful. I think it was Plato that coined necessity being the mother of invention...... well I wanted to also save money! I used a saw and a mouse sander. 

Yes Graham, I noted early on how others were using Railway figures to furnish extra staff officers, and naval officers. 

Cheers Brad. I seem to remember reading somewhere that the Schleswigers mentioned a Danish vessel during their wars as being notable for its black paintwork. There is no missing mine either, lol. I might try and seek out a public hall to stage a large naval action. By the way, a few days ago I completed a small unit of Carabinieri Genovese 1860. It's another period I would like to better represent on the wargaming table. 

MEDIEVAL WARGAME set in Spain (and more)

                                                            MEDIEVAL WARGAME

When you choose to wargame in 54mm some leeway in building scales is a necessity. If you decide to use toy soldiers, and hark back to the look and style of early wargaming, this leeway becomes a feature. As a child, I loved looking at books on medieval history, particularly if they included plates from original manuscripts. The latter were not just colourful and exciting, they were distinctive in having little or no recognition for scale or distance.

SCENARIO

I was in the mood for a medieval wargame, nothing too large, but something strategic to try and capture.  This game is set in Spain c.1400. A Moorish controlled town becomes the target for a band of Castilian adventurers. Dice will determine the numbers involved.

Both the Moors and the Castilians were allowed to throw two dice (multiply by five). Half of the defending Moors would be civic militia, while all of the Castilians would be retinue. Each side was to be also granted three warrior/knight commanders. This system furnished 48 Moors, and 38 Castilians. Seems good enough!

The Moorish Vizier (local governor) chose 3 artillerists with a light cannon, 6 blades, 9 archers, 4 javelin men. The town furnished another 16 civic blades, and 7 archers. The Castilians brought a medium catapult with 3 crew, 16 sword and shield, 8 crossbowmen, and 8 archers. (A D6 confirmed someone had the foresight to bring some ladders and pavises..... now that could have been embarrassing.)

THE GAME (JAN.31)

MOVE ONE. The Castilian commander was polite enough to invite the town to surrender. The Vizier politely declined, but I still threw a dice to determine the resolve of the civic levy to actually fight. A D5 indicated they were willing. MOVE TWO. The Castilians advanced with pavises from two directions, while the catapult let loose, but fell short of the wall (D2). MOVE THREE. The Castilians advanced. The catapult let loose again but fell to the right of a corner tower. The Arab cannon replied, the shot landed to the right of the catapult. MOVE FOUR. The Castilians advanced. Archers and crossbowmen let loose. The Castilians suffered four, inflicting only one in return. Not a good start. The pavises did help, but not against an enemy throwing D6's at medium range. 

MOVE FIVE. The Castilians advanced. Moorish javelins and arrows brought down three, but the Castilians also took down three, two of which were civic archers. The latter had to test their moral, D1, they abandoned the wall, and the panic spread to half of the civic spearmen guarding the gate! MOVE SIX. The Castilians advanced. A Castilian artillerist had his head taken off by the Moorish cannon.

MOVE SEVEN. The Castilians advanced. A slight liberty here.... my ladders are large, and they reached the wall..... and why not? Brilliant... the Black Lion knight led the ladder assault and made short work of his javelin armed opponent. His Castilian archers also took down two nearby Mamluk guards. But on the left wall, disaster, the White Lion knight was the first on the ladder, survived an arrow hit, only to be slain by a Moorish warrior. If that wasn't bad enough, his followers were forced to test their morale, they held, but refused to advance (climb up the ladder). 

MOVE EIGHT. With sword and shield, the Black Lion knight slew a Mamluk spearman, which obliged a half strength morale check on the remainder, they broke, and so followed the javelin men, and the artillerists. The remaining civic spearmen by the gate witnessed three of their superior allies routing, not surprisingly, they now followed suit. MOVE NINE. A lone Moorish warrior now faced the Black Lion knight and his retinue. Draw! While on the left wall, crossbow and archer exchanged shots. The Castilian crossbowmen fell under half strength, and scarpered. The Vizier tried to rally his men in the city, but to no avail. MOVE TEN. The Black Lion knight invited the brave Moorish warrior to surrender, D6, he declined. In the following melee the Moor threw a D5, against a D6 with a plus one for outnumbering..... the right wall was theirs! MOVE ELEVEN. The Moors were now down to just two warriors and five archers still obeying orders. Outnumbered, by three to one, they decided to seek and were granted favourable terms to depart.  GAME OVER. 

Here is the hero of the day, by right of conquest he is now the lord of the town. His heraldry, a sinister lion, might imply he is illegitimate? Perhaps his surname starts with 'Fitz'?

A very enjoyable game, lasting about two hours. I think it is time I painted those toy ladders.

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                                         BRITISH RACING GREEN and my Dinky Racing Car

The Simeone Foundation Automotive Museum is based in Philadelphia, USA. In 2022 they staged an event celebrating British Racing Green, and from their website I quote.....

"British Racing Green is one of the most iconic colors in the world. It’s synonymous with British culture, heritage, and style. British Racing Green is considered the national color, representing Britain’s past successes at racing. It signifies power, aggression, and strength, but also stands for endurance and resilience. This exhibition takes a closer look at this special hue and examines its place as a symbol for British culture, heritage, and style."

Featured exhibition cars included a 1934 MG PA, 1938 Jaguar SS100, 1950 HRG 1500, 1950 MG-TD, 1961 Triumph TR4, 1965 Morgan + 4, 1966 Austin Healey 3000 Mark III, 1966 Lotus Elan Coupe S3, 1966 Sunbeam Tiger, 1967 Jaguar E-Type. 1968 Triumph TR 250, 1993 Bentley 

Here is their link... https://simeonemuseum.org/photos/2022-a-study-of-british-racing-green-best-of-britain-exhibition/ This photo was taken by Andrew Taylor, many more on their website.

MY RESTORED DINKY COOPER BRISTOL 1950s. Completed JAN.31

I used miliput to restore the chipped hubcaps. And straightened the axles.

I used grass green, dark blue, and black acrylics to create the British racing green, and then sprayed three coats of varnish.

Original condition.

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                                                            LIMBER HORSES (JAN.26)

Have finally sorted out the draught horse issue. Have also mixed and matched the new horses with others in the collection. For example, here are three of the sorted pairs. A vast improvement, and they don't take up too much space on my small gaming table.

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EXPLODING BATTLESHIPS

Well it does appear, the idea of having toy ships that sort of explode has been around for some time. I spotted this on Sally Antiques (website) some time ago, and it definitely caught my attention. These are thought to date to c.1900.

I'll place a bet there are no vermin onboard these ships. I shall never look at a mousetrap again without contemplating an alternative purpose, lol. 

MGB

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REPLYING TO FRIENDS COMMENTING BELOW

Thank you, Donnie. The game really did play very well, and a joy, not least because it was fairly quick to set up, with only about eighty figures on the table. I'm still slightly at a loss as to how and when do the ships explode. I'm assuming, just like a mousetrap, a slight touch and they are set off. So I imagine you could try to hit them with matchstick firing cannon, or just rolling marbles at them? Must admit, it is a fun idea.

Thanks Roger. It's true, no way would they allow such a contraption to be made as a children's toy today, but I do agree with Donnie, I bet the kids had some fun playing with them, a century ago. That the product was given a patent number makes me wonder just how many were manufactured, and the photo shows there was at least two sizes of ship....... amazing.

Most kind, Brad. When a solo wargame furnishes a full and exciting story, which required no other editing than the artillerist lost his head on becoming a casualty, the hobby has proved its worth. Indeed, if it wasn't for some housework the following day, I was inclined to have another Medieval bash. Like yourself, the viewing of a good history book would lead to my more numerous Airfix 20mm refighting some of the battles, great fun.

Thank you, MJT. I thought the game played very well. And it was an interesting break from my two main periods. It is also nice to see the racing car in a presentable state. It's always a chore to paint strip but when the crap is all removed, the casting is cleaned up, and primed, you begin to see the full potential. (You just caught me working on something powerful for my Danish collection.)

Matchstick Firing Cannon (and More)

                                                   🇦🇺  HAPPY AUSTRALIA DAY (26th)  🇦🇺

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MATCHSTICK FIRING CANNON

Regular visitors will be aware I'm hoping to stage a gunboat wargame as part of my fictitious war between the United States and the British Empire in c.1900. This game will be using matchstick firing cannon to indicate hits, and dice to determine the damage that has been done.

During the last century W. Britains began to manufacture matchstick firing die-cast guns. Arguably, the most common still found today is the 25pdr Gun Howitzer, which started production in the 1950s. I believe the code WB2026 was the original model, possibly painted in khaki green, later models were coded No.9705, with dark green paintwork. 

Not only are these 25pdr Gun Howitzers often seen in auctions and second-hand shops, but their firing mechanisms usually still work perfectly. What a credential to the quality of W. Britains Toys!

With several of these guns in my collection, it was vital some kind of assessment was made as to their game potential. Firstly, I needed to confirm that both guns were equal in their firing. Secondly, should I construct special ammunition? Thirdly, what was their range?

Without going 'overboard' (sorry), I decided to hold some performance tests. Here are the main points.

1. Pleased to report that my two 25pdr guns are equal in their firing.

2. A target vessel was placed twelve foot away, showing its side. It measured ten inches in length, and six inches high. 

3. Three types of ammunition were tested. The first comprised straight and strong matchsticks. The second had the matchstick heads covered in a white paper label, for additional weight. The third were shorter, made of bamboo, given a point, and painted red. The gun was to be fired at ground level.

4. The matchsticks averaged one hit out of every six. The other five fell short or drifted to the left. I noticed no major distinction in the labelled matchsticks, although slightly easier to find.

5. The pointed bamboo ammunition scored two hits out of every six. And those that missed travelled another three foot. (And you could barely see them fly!) I should also mention, this ammunition has the ability to permanently blind your opponent, I guess it all depends on how important it is that you win.

Conclusion. Well, I'm not quite sure there is one. The bamboo does offer slightly more skill in the firing. While the irregularity of the matchstick could prove both amusing and irritating. I welcome opinions. 

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RESTORING DRAUGHT HORSES 

While pleased to have abstained from auctions for four months, my collection still included a fair number of horse drawn vehicles that lacked horses to pull them. Something had to be done. 

When I spotted these, TO BUY NOW or OFFER, I took up the challenge. We agreed on £20 for the nine horses, which included delivery. OK, it's not quite a bargain, many also required paint stripping, and some needed repair work.....but their arrival has reduced a problem. 

Two of those below are smaller, but fine for my Ruritanian 50mm collection.

Repairing with metal rods and milliput.

The horses are W. Britains, Simon & Rovollet, and a couple of home cast or Benbros? There is also one horse with the words F.M.Co. ENGLAND, which is totally new to me. Joining these with others in my collection, I'm going to stick to my policy of basing a pair of horses with a metal wire loop between them. I can then link a team to any vehicle with a central shaft. Seven of the nine were paint stripped, two were good enough to just add some painted detail.

Here are the horses (Jan.22) repaired, painted and varnished. 

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OLD CARDBOARD GUNBOAT

I couldn't resist uploading a photo of this apparently American-made antique toy. It really is quite amazing how it has lasted! Now I must admit, I'm slightly tempted to reproduce it for the wargames table, using authentic materials (lol). But I don't see it being quite suitable for use in my damp English garden. 

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VISITING THE COLLECTABLES SHOP..... again

'Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans' (Allen Saunders).

My plan was to visit the local collectables shop (Jan.23) to find a pair of cheap wheels suitable for a plasticard project. I ended up choosing £19 worth of goodies, which the shop owner generously reduced to £14. 

The racing car just took my fancy, it cried out for restoration. It is a Dinky 1950s Cooper Bristol 233. Difficult to scale, I would suggest 1/38, although it is officially 1/43. Fair examples, in their original British racing green, can be picked up for about £12. The previous owner had repainted this toy in Italian red, I'm trying not to swear. Dinky actually did make a red Maserati as part of their range. 

(The photo below is from the excellent Vectis.co.uk website, no copyright infringement intended, no profit, and for purposes of education. It shows the two racing cars.)

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WW2 GERMAN ARMY CART or LIMBER (JAN.24)

This was a fun project.  I wanted to use up the plasticard that was left over from the transport ship I recently made (see previous post). I was also keen to utilise a particular draught horse (one of those mentioned above). 

 

The German army used IF8 handcarts for supplying ammunition in the field, but these were also available with attachments for a single horse, and used as limbers for very light artillery. OK, the PAK38 had their own two horse limbers, but I will make do! I doubt this model cost £1 to make, and £2 for the horse.

MGB

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REPLYING TO FRIENDS COMMENTING BELOW

Thanks Donnie. I normally post every seven to ten days, so sometimes there is a few subjects I would like to record on the blog. It has been a fairly quiet week, partly because of the weather, so I decided to clear a few hobby projects. I just couldn't resist the racing car, and it is presently being paint stripped. To be honest, the German cart is rather large in scale, but it does look nice on the gaming table and I like the idea my PAK guns have some kind of limber.

Hello Roger. It really is a shame your postage costs are so ridiculous, I guess it is to discourage imports. The W. Britains 25pdr is so user friendly, and a wonderful model for wargaming WW2, or just shooting matchsticks. (Did you keep your father's gift?) I used the Airfix mountain troops in snow smocks, painting them as camouflage smocks. Have also camouflaged some Afrika Korps tunics too, which look fine for late war uniforms.

 

Roger, just tell your son his soldiers (and gun) have been conscripted, doesn't he know there is a war on?

Hello Brad. I am pleased with the limber horses, hope to base some more of them today. Thank you for the useful information on the Deetail Confederates. As it happens, in my spares box is, I think, the later advancing figure! I just need to repair the foot plugs. My plan is to recruit a combined battalion of Britains Deetail and Britains Swoppet figures. (Quite a few Southern NG units continued to wear grey uniforms and kepis after the ACW. ) I envy you having a genuine, firing Fischer!

Hello MJT. Had to smile with 'Cardclad'. Reminded me of the action at Jutland. The British won the battle but suffered heavier losses than the Germans. But the latter surveyed their ships and a secret report showed that one third or more of the British hits failed to detonate. Had they used the ammunition adopted shortly after Jutland, the Germans would have suffered heavier casualties than the British. This report, plus the RN could suffer heavier losses because of its sheer size, convinced the German Naval Command not to risk another major naval battle during WW1. That gunboat is so 'Christmas' in its appearance. And I love that you can see the naval crew firing the guns..... wonderful stuff. 

Hello Quinn. Best wishes to you and yours on your National Day of founding. As you probably know, most Brits are very pro our Australian cousins. You just brought back a memory of childhood I had totally forgotten..... my school chums and I, in about 1970, had toy revolvers that could be loaded with a handful of dried peas. You could buy bags of additional ammunition from the hardware shop for a few pence. Mine automatically reloaded when fired... about a dozen shots, if it did not jam. Thank you for that wonderful memory, lol.  

Quinn, have just found this photo of one, and I remembered it was called a Sekiden.

Hello John. I have met more than one wargamer that had only one moral code of conduct, to win by any means possible, and to condemn outright any set of rules that interfered with that result, lol. I just felt the Cooper Bristol in Italian red had to be corrected. A member of my family regularly visits Silverstone, and would expect no less. Today (27th), I primed the model, and black-washed the tires. It is already looking much nicer. Tomorrow I will mix up some Racing Green. 

Hello Henri. I had to look up your 'lego sticks and lightsabers'. Yes, they would certainly be easier to find! In my day, lego comprised a grey platform, red or white bricks, and blue roof tiles..... that was it! I suspect I will stick to well cut matchsticks, I can afford to lose them in the garden, lol. Regards.